concrete tanks - vertical construction joints in walls

huangyhg

concrete tanks - vertical construction joints in walls
when we design concrete tanks walls, we use vertical construction joints at approximate third points.  i try to make the joints coincide with the end of the middle horizontal bar that would lap with the corner bar.  this reduces the horizontal shrinkage effects.  i have problems isolating the middle horizontal bar for smaller tanks.  where do you place vertical construction joints in concrete tanks?
where the base slab meets the tank wall, we use either a starter wall to accomodate a pvc waterstop or we roughen the surface and don't uses a starter wall or key when we use a hydrotite waterstop. in both cases we rely on shear friction to transfer the shear from the wall to the base.  however, we use keys in the vertical wall construction joints.  how do you detail your vertical wall construction joints?  do you use keys?  do you roughen the joint and rely on shear friction?  i think roughening the joint on a vertical surface would be too labor intensive.  i'm interested in your input.
thanks,
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i need some information.  are you talking about circular or rectangular (square) tanks?  also, what middle horizontal bars are you talking about?  we usually have two curtains of reinforcing each way.  
as far as keys in the starter wall joint, we don't use them.  they're hard to build and create limited improvement of shear capacity. i'd also eliminate them in the vertical joint. roughening the joint isn't that hard. i'd make them do it.  
note that shear friction only applies specifically at the joint.  you still need sufficient thickness of your wall to carry the shear load. this will usually control.
we are doing both rectangular and round tanks for this job.  we use two curtains of bars also; one on each face of the tank wall.  the "middle bars" i am referring to are in the square tanks. they are the horizontal bars that will lap with the horizontal end bars at the corners of the tank walls.  these are the bars in the "midspan" of the tank walls.  i was told to put the vertical construction joints at or near the tank wall 1/3 points (along the width of the wall) to minimize shrinkage keeping the "middle bars" out of the first pour.  is this worth it?
for the key, no key, or roughened joint sitution for the vertical construction joints, i am asking about both rectangular and round tanks.  i wanted to use a roughened joint but i was a little concerned about the edges of the joint. will they chip due to feathering or is this not a problem?  is the joint roughened inside the rebar curtains or along the entire surface?
jc,
what do you use to judge the acceptablility of the 1/4" amplitude surface roughening?
the only in depth resource i have ever known has been the icri references, but these speak to preparing a surface for coatings, not necessarily for adjacent concrete pours.
other than engineering judgement, which is not usually found in inspectors, how do you determine what is acceptable?
vincentpa-
we don't detail the location of the vertical joint.  the location is driven by the form work material availablitly.  we only specify that the length between joints not exceed 40 feet.
we use keys in our vertical construction joints.  it facilitates the construction of the vertical waterstop.  we do not use a key at the base of the wall.  we rely on shear friction.  in lieu of roughening the surface, we use mu=0.6.
vertical joints always rigorously installed at third points seem like overkill.  i'd space them at 30 to 40 ft.  pour the corners first and wait for a while to pour the next adjacent sections.  that will eliminate some shrinkage cracking at the corners.
have them bush hammer or some similar roughening for the vertical joints.  i wouldn't worry about feathering.  if you don't look too close, you won't see it.
this is always a contentious point, but i would like to vote against robust roughening of joint surfaces.  bush hammering and the like causes microcracking in the concrete which can cause durability issues.  a clean surface is all that is required, based on a lot of reports of studies i have seen.  high pressure water cleaning should do the job.
i'd agree with hokie66 here.  the shear across the vertical joints isn't high at the joint locations, anyway.  there so much vertical steel at the base of the wall, shear friction doesn't require it.
do you place waterstops in the vertical wall joints?  we do here.  the vertical waterstop is connected to the waterstop at the base of the wall using factory welded tee joints.
we do not use starter walls, as they are difficult to construct.  we lower the top bar in the base slab to accommodate the embedded waterstop without conflicting with the top horizontal bar in the base slab.
minorchord2000
we place waterstops in the vertical joints, as you do.  do you mean that you lower the top bars everywhere or bend them down at the perimeter?  we bend our bars at the perimeter.
jmiec,
i am hesitant to allow the contractor to choose a construction joint location.  they might pick a corner of the tank.  i have a small tank 20'x20'x14' and i don't want to put control joints at the third points but i don't necesarily like to put the control at midspan either.
hokie66,
as for roughening the joint, a 15 pound hammer does not create significant micro-cracking.  anything above a 15 pound hammer will start to crack the concrete.  for the base slab, they usually dont finish the concrete where it is specified to be roughened.  that is usually good enough.  what reports are you talking about for just a clean surface?  if you are doing concrete repair, the surface is already roughened usually.
minorchord2000,
i don't like to bend the bars down because those bars are resisting the negative moment induced by the wall.  i don't think that a 5-1/2" starter wall is that difficult to build.  aci recommends starter walls in aci 350.2r-04 concrete structures for containment of hazardous materials.  i've never met a contractor that didn't gripe about something he's done or not done all his career.
as for shear friction, i don't like the fact that aci states that you don't have to increase the shear friction reinforcement, i.e. the flexural reinforcement is good enough.  it doesn't feel right for a tank wall.  my question is, how can the flexural steel and the shear friction steel be the same?  i know aci states the shear friction will be greater on the compressive side of the flexural element.  i don't buy it.  have they done studies in walls for this?  i always add shear friction reinforcement at the base of the wall and at the corners if there is no reserve capacity in my flexural reinforcement or i just increase the size of the flexural reinforcement.